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There’s DVD+R, DVD+RW, DVD-R, DVD-RW, and even DVD-ROM! So what’s the difference between all of these different names, aren’t all DVDs the same? Well, it’s not quite that simple.

Let’s first start with the most obvious difference: some have R and some have RW. The “R” stands for readable, while the “W” stands for writeable.

The main difference between DVD-R and DVD-RW, or DVD+R and DVD+RW is that the R disc formats can only be written to once, and then it is only readable and can’t be erased for the rest of its digital life. While RW discs are can be written to and erased many times, they are both readable and writeable.

“R” discs are perfect if they are only needed to be written to once, such as giving some files to a friend or transferring them between PCs. “RW” discs have their strength in the ability to be used many times over, which is great for routine system backups, etc. And naturally, the RW discs are slightly more expensive than the R discs, but you’ll have to decide if the trade offs are worth the money.

Now, onto the difference between DVD-R and DVD+R. As I just described above, DVD-R & DVD-RW are sister discs, the difference being one is writeable once, while the other is writeable multiple times. The same thing is true for DVD+R & DVD+RW. So the question is, what’s the difference between the plus and minus?

In order to explain this we must take a trip back in time. When DVDs were first being developed, there was no industry standard. Multiple companies were competing to develop what they hoped would be the dominant form of the future.

The DVD-R DVD+R difference can easily be summarized by the following:

• The DVD-R/RW standard was developed by Pioneer, and is used primarily by Apple and Pioneer. These “minus” discs can only be written to in one layer on the discs surface. In addition, this format is supported by the DVD forum, but is in no way an industry standard. DVD-R/RW discs are cheaper than the “plus” format.
• The DVD+R/RW format is supported by Philips, Dell, Sony, HP, and Mcft. These discs can be written to in multiple layers, giving them slightly better and more disc storage than the “minus” format. Because of this additional capacity, they are slightly more expensive than “minus” discs.

A couple final things to clear up is the difference between DVD-ROM and DVD+RW, or the other DVD formats I mentioned above. The DVD-ROM drive can only read DVDs, while the other DVD drives can read and write data to DVDs.

And naturally the DVD+RW CD+RW difference can be explained by the “DVD” or “CD” prefix. DVDs, on average, can store up to 4.7 GB of data, while a CD can only store about 700 MB of data, or about 15% of a DVD’s capacity. While CDs are slightly cheaper, in my opinion, the benefits of DVDs are much greater.

So now that you’ve learned about the difference between DVD-R, DVD+R, DVD-RW, DVD+RW, and even DVD-ROM, which one is right for you? The easiest way to determine which is more beneficial is to watch the industry trends. A few years ago all pre-built computers were shipping with DVD-ROM drives. Today, most PCs have a burnable DVD drive.

I feel that the benefits of having a burnable DVD drive far outweigh any additional costs. They store much more data, and they are ideal for storing your home movies to watch on your DVD player.

My advice is to look at DVD burners that support all of the major formats I’ve mentioned above, DVD-R, DVD+R, DVD-RW, and DVD+RW. While a DVD drive that supports all of these formats may be slightly more expensive, it will allow you to use any type of DVD disc to burn to, and you’ll be protected from any industry shifts to one format or the other.

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This is only a quick tutorial, there are literally hundreds of little tricks you can do with a DNS, but this will get your basics up and running. I’m assuming you want to setup a windows DNS server, but the principals will work for most servers.

You will need..

• 1) A domain name over which you have full control
• 2) DNS server software(Windows server always comes with one of these)
• 3) At least one fixed IP address, allthough two is highly desirable
• 4) An idea of what services you want on your server

The first thing you need to do is create your new domain entry. In windows this is called a “Zone” and you will have one for every domain name you have. Add your main domain in the forward lookup zone as a Primary zone, which will be in the format “Domainname.com”, or .co.uk, or whatever, you shouldn’t need any more details for this bit. Do *not* allow dynamic updates unless this is a local network DNS. Once it is created you will have 2 entry’s under your new domain, “SOA”(Or Start of Authority) and “NS”(Or Name server). If you want a 100% compliant DNS then you should now follow the same process but adding a domain as a reverse lookup zone. Any changes you make to the forward lookup should have the “Update Reverse Lookup” option ticked if its available, if not you must update the reverse zone manually(This is very important).

Now edit the “NS” entry in your forward zone to “NS0.DomainName.Com”, and set it to the relevant IP address. Add another (NS) record and set it to “NS1.DomainName.Com”. If using 2 IP address, try to make NS0 the first IP. Now you need to configure the SOA entry in the forward lookup zone. The serial number should be changed to a date followed by a number in this format “YYYYMMDDnn”, this is not required, but is advised by RIPE. The primary server will be the “NS0.domainname.com” entry you just made and the responsible person should be left for now. The refresh interval should be set somewhere between 1200 to 43200 seconds, the retry should be between 120-7200 seconds and the expires after should be around 2-4 weeks(I’ll let you work out the seconds for that). The minimum TTL is quite important, and depending on what you are going to do with the domain, you might need to tweak this a bit. Typically a value between 1-3 hours should be used. Now go to your “Name server” settings in your SOA record(In windows this is a tab in the same window) remove the defaults, and add your two Name servers that you just setup. We will come back to the SOA record later, but for now we need to do some more stuff.

If you want a website, then your going to want the WWW. setting up. We will set it up as an “A” record, which means it is a separate top level record and will be populated separately from other entries. So add an “A” to your forward lookup zone and put the entry as “WWW”, and set the IP address to wherever you want the website to be. This will be where the domain always goes, and it could be anywhere. Just make sure there is a web server waiting there for it. If you want FTP, then setup the same thing but with “FTP” in the entry. You will now also have to setup “A” records for the NS0 and NS1 name servers that you added previously, just make them the same as WWW and FTP, but make sure the IP addresses match the ones used for setting up the “NS” records. Also add a blank “A” record, this will make sure that “domainname.com” works as well as “www.domainname.com”.

Now you should decide whether or not you want to have mail on this domain. It is Hegel advisable that you set one up, even if it just to catch domain mail about abuse or potential problems that might occur. You can find plenty of high quality free mail servers out there, but I would recommend “Mail Enable”, its free and provides everything you would want, but if you want webmail you do have to pay something extra for it. We will now configure the MX records. Add an “A” name for your mail server, you can add 2 if you want, but for simplicity I would advise staying with 1. We will call ours “Mail.domainname.com”, and point it to one of our IP addresses. Now add an “MX” record in the Forward Lookup zone, giving it the full “A” record you just entered “Mail.domainname.com”, and do not setup a host or child domain, just leave it blank.

This next step isn’t needed, but is again highly recommended.

Now to finish the SOA you need to add two more records. A “RP” entry, which is a Responsible Person, and they will be the contact point for domain complaints and a “MB” entry, which is a mailbox entry. The “MB” should just be pointed to the mail server domain name “Mail.domainname.com”, and the “RP” should have the host or domain set to the name of your mail box. So for this server it will be “Tony.Domainname.com”, and the mailbox will be set to the “MB” record you just made. Don’t worry about the RP address having no “@” in it, this is the expected format for an “RP” entry. You will now have to go back into the SOA and change the responsible person to the new “RP” record you just made.

And thats it, your done! You can add as many “A” records as you like to point to other web servers, or a multitude of FTP sites. And you can add “CNAME” records to basically point to another name, usually an “A” record, like an alias.

Now before you switch your domain on, you need to check that the server is performing properly. So go to www.dnsreport.com, and run the report on your domain “domainname.com”, and it will give you a very detailed report of any problems, and even a short description of how to fix the problems. If all is OK, then you are ready to go live. If your domain name is new, or not currently hosted anywhere then the first thing you should do is re-point the domain at your new server. You will typically do this with the provider who owns the domain, and it will be different with all hosts. But the basic settings are the same. You will be asked for at least 2 name servers and ip addresses to go with them. Just put in “NS0.domainname.com” and “NS1.domainname.com” and put in the correct IP addresses. Make sure you do not mess this up, as changes to your main NS servers could potentially take several days to straighten themselves out. Update these settings, and then sit back and wait. You can do a whois on the main DNS server of your domain provider to check if the settings have worked, but again this doesn’t always work. For the big 3 domains(.com .net .org) you can do a whois on the network associates site to see the changes instantly. You can also track the progress of the domain changes by doing an NSLookup in dos, like this…

c:\nslookup ns0.domainname.com NS0.yourprovidersdns.com

That will give you the entries your domain provider has

c:\nslookup www.domainname.com ns0.domainname.com

And this will tell you if the changes for your domain have gone through to your ISPs DNS yet. It should give you back the IP address of your new DNS server.

You should always make sure your server is backed up, and that you refresh or update the DNS when you are making changes.

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So, it’s time for a digital camera huh? Well, buying one can be more than a little difficult. What types of features should you look for? Well, this guide will tell you that plus get you a little more familiar with what these cameras are capable of.

Megapixels
When it comes to megapixels, the more the better. I recommend a minimum of 2, but 3 or 4 is great. We did a test to see if a camera with 2.3 megapixels (actually 1.92 - 1600 x 1200) could produce a good quality 8×10.

Turns out it can, if you have the right paper and printer. We used HP Premium Plus photo paper with an HP 970 series printer and made a fantastic 8 x 10. Remember, I was a professional photographer before I got into computing, so I know a good print when I see it :-)

The resolution at 8×10 (we had to crop in to make the picture proportional to 8×10) was only 150 DPI. Most printers would not make a real good 8×10 at that resolution, but this one did. So, if you want to be sure you can get good 8 x 10s, you may want to go with a 3 megapixel camera or better (that gives you around 200 DPI at 8×10 size, still not quite the optimum 300 DPI, but it looks good with the right printer).

Optical vs Digital Zoom
You’ve probably noticed that most digital cameras have both a specification for digital and optical zoom. Pay the most attention to the optical zoom.

The optical zoom magnifies (zooms in) using glass. The digital zoom basically crops out the edge of the picture to make the subject appear closer, causing you to lose resolution or to get an interpolated resolution (i.e. the camera adds pixels). Neither of which help image quality.

Finally, make sure you get enough (optical) zoom. A 2x zoom isn’t going to do much for you. A 3x is the average you’ll find in most digital cameras will probably be good for most uses. More on lenses later.

Connection
How does the camera connect to your computer? If you have a USB port in your computer, you’ll want a camera that can connect via USB as opposed to a slow serial connection.

On the other hand, if your computer doesn’t have a USB port, is there a serial connector available for the camera you’re looking at? If so, is it a special order and how long does it take to get it?

Storage
What does the camera use to store images with? If it uses a memory stick, make sure you consider buying additional sticks when you get your camera.

Some cameras use a 3.5 inch disk for storage. Be careful of these!
Although it may sound like a good idea, a 3 megapixel camera at high resolution produces a 1 meg file (compressed!). That’s only 1 picture per disk.

Here’s a few more things to look out for when trying to make your digital camera purchase.

Picture Formats
When you’re trying to decide on which digital camera to get, check and see how many different picture formats it supports.

You want something that can produce both uncompressed (usually TIFF) and compressed (usually JPEG) images. I personally use the high quality JPEG setting on my camera for most of my shooting. TIFFs are just too big and the difference in quality is not ascertainable by mere mortals.

You also want to be able to shoot at a lower resolution than the camera’s maximum. That way, If you’re running short on memory, you can squeeze a few more shots on your memory stick.

Auxiliary Lens / Flash
This was a biggie for me. While a 3x zoom may work for the “average” user, I needed something that allowed me to do some wide angle work as well as have a good telephoto lens.

So, the camera I purchased a few months back was a Nikon Coolpix 990 (note that this isn’t the only camera that can accept lenses). It has auxiliary lenses that screw into the filter ring on the front of the lens. I now have an ultra-wide fisheye lens plus a nice telephoto.

In addition to lenses, I wanted a good flash. The flash that is built into most of these cameras gives you a top range of 15-20 feet - at best. I wanted a camera that could take a powerful auxiliary flash (again, the Nikon isn’t the only camera that fits this requirement, but I liked it better than the rest). If you need more reach than the small built in flash can deliver, then make sure you can attach an external flash to any camera you consider.

As an added bonus, if you get a camera that can take an external flash, you can place that flash on a bracket and eliminate red-eye.

Flash Distance
Speaking of flashes, make sure you check the distance the built in flash is good for. You don’t want a camera with a wimpy flash that only travels a few feet (well, unless you can get an external flash for it as described above).

Battery Type
This may not sound important, but it is. Anyone who owns a digital camera can tell you they eat batteries the way a sumo wrestler eats at a buffet.

Make sure the camera can run on regular (or rechargeable) “AA” type batteries. You don’t want a camera that eats through expensive lithium batteries every 10 shots or so.

One thing to remember about digital cameras, they do eat through batteries. I recommend getting some Nickel Metal Hydride rechargeable for it. I have some for mine and they have saved me a fortune.

Final Notes
Choosing a digital camera isn’t easy. There’s a huge selection out there and only you can determine which features you need.

For instance, if you shoot wildlife photos, a small 3x zoom probably isn’t going to cut it (unless you can attach auxiliary lenses to it). If you shoot lots of close-ups, make sure the camera has some sort of macro capability. If you shoot big group photos indoors, an external flash may be necessary.

My advice is to make a list of things you want to be able to do with the camera then go to somewhere that can help you make a good purchase decision.

Finally, buy the BEST camera you can possibly afford. Or wait until the price drops on one with the type of features you want.

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Ever wondered just what that enigmatic name means?

Gaming and multimedia applications are some of the most satisfying programs you can get for your PC, but getting them to run properly isn’t always as easy as it could be. First, the PC architecture was never designed as a gaming platform. Second, the wide-ranging nature of the PC means that one person’s machine can be different from another. While games consoles all contain the same hardware, PCs don’t: the massive range of difference can make gaming a headache.

To alleviate as much of the pain as possible, Microsoft needed to introduce a common standard which all games and multimedia applications could follow – a common interface between the OS and whatever hardware is installed in the PC, if you like. This common interface is DirectX, something which can be the source of much confusion.

DirectX is an interface designed to make certain programming tasks much easier, for both the game developer and the rest of us who just want to sit down and play the latest blockbuster. Before we can explain what DirectX is and how it works though, we need a little history lesson.

DirectX history
Any game needs to perform certain tasks again and again. It needs to watch for your input from mouse, joystick or keyboard, and it needs to be able to display screen images and play sounds or music. That’s pretty much any game at the most simplistic level.

Imagine how incredibly complex this was for programmers developing on the early pre-Windows PC architecture, then. Each programmer needed to develop their own way of reading the keyboard or detecting whether a joystick was even attached, let alone being used to play the game. Specific routines were needed even to display the simplest of images on the screen or play a simple sound.

Essentially, the game programmers were talking directly to your PC’s hardware at a fundamental level. When Microsoft introduced Windows, it was imperative for the stability and success of the PC platform that things were made easier for both the developer and the player. After all, who would bother writing games for a machine when they had to reinvent the wheel every time they began work on a new game? Microsoft’s idea was simple: stop programmers talking directly to the hardware, and build a common toolkit which they could use instead. DirectX was born.

How it works
At the most basic level, DirectX is an interface between the hardware in your PC and Windows itself, part of the Windows API or Application Programming Interface. Let’s look at a practical example. When a game developer wants to play a sound file, it’s simply a case of using the correct library function. When the game runs, this calls the DirectX API, which in turn plays the sound file. The developer doesn’t need to know what type of sound card he’s dealing with, what it’s capable of, or how to talk to it. Microsoft has provided DirectX, and the sound card manufacturer has provided a DirectX-capable driver. He asks for the sound to be played, and it is – whichever machine it runs on.

From our point of view as gamers, DirectX also makes things incredibly easy – at least in theory. You install a new sound card in place of your old one, and it comes with a DirectX driver. Next time you play your favourite game you can still hear sounds and music, and you haven’t had to make any complex configuration changes.

Originally, DirectX began life as a simple toolkit: early hardware was limited and only the most basic graphical functions were required. As hardware and software has evolved in complexity, so has DirectX. It’s now much more than a graphical toolkit, and the term has come to encompass a massive selection of routines which deal with all sorts of hardware communication. For example, the DirectInput routines can deal with all sorts of input devices, from simple two-button mice to complex flight joysticks. Other parts include DirectSound for audio devices and DirectPlay provides a toolkit for online or multiplayer gaming.

DirectX versions
The current version of DirectX at time of writing is DirectX 9.22.1284. This runs on all versions of Windows from Windows 98 up to and including Windows Server 2003 along with every revision in between. It doesn’t run on Windows 95 though: if you have a machine with Windows 95 installed, you’re stuck with the older and less capable 8.0a. Windows NT 4 also requires a specific version – in this case, it’s DirectX 3.0a.

With so many versions of DirectX available over the years, it becomes difficult to keep track of which version you need. In all but the most rare cases, all versions of DirectX are backwardly compatible – games which say they require DirectX 7 will happily run with more recent versions, but not with older copies. Many current titles explicitly state that they require DirectX 9, and won’t run without the latest version installed. This is because they make use of new features introduced with this version, although it has been known for lazy developers to specify the very latest version as a requirement when the game in question doesn’t use any of the new enhancements. Generally speaking though, if a title is version locked like this, you will need to upgrade before you can play. Improvements to the core DirectX code mean you may even see improvements in many titles when you upgrade to the latest build of DirectX. Downloading and installing DirectX need not be complex, either.

Upgrading DirectX
All available versions of Windows come with DirectX in one form or another as a core system component which cannot be removed, so you should always have at least a basic implementation of the system installed on your PC. However, many new games require the very latest version before they work properly, or even at all.

Generally, the best place to install the latest version of DirectX from is the dedicated section of the Microsoft Web site, which is found at www.microsoft.com/windows/directx. As we went to press, the most recent build available for general download was DirectX 9.22.1284. You can download either a simple installer which will in turn download the components your system requires as it installs, or download the complete distribution package in one go for later offline installation.

Another good source for DirectX is games themselves. If a game requires a specific version, it’ll be on the installation CD and may even be installed automatically by the game’s installer itself. You won’t find it on magazine cover discs though, thanks to Microsoft’s licensing terms.

Diagnosing problems

Diagnosing problems with a DirectX installation can be problematic, especially if you don’t know which one of the many components is causing your newly purchased game to fall over. Thankfully, Microsoft provides a useful utility called the DirectX Diagnostic Tool, although this isn’t made obvious. You won’t find this tool in the Start Menu with any version of Windows, and each tends to install it in a different place.

The easiest way to use it is to open the Start Menu’s Run dialog, type in dxdiag and then click OK. When the application first loads, it takes a few seconds to interrogate your DirectX installation and find any problems. First, the DirectX Files tab displays version information on each one of the files your installation uses. The Notes section at the bottom is worth checking, as missing or corrupted files will be flagged here.

The tabs marked Display, Sound, Music, Input and Network all relate to specific areas of DirectX, and all but the Input tab provide tools to test the correct functioning on your hardware. Finally, the More Help tab provides a useful way to start the DirectX Troubleshooter, Microsoft’s simple linear problem solving tool for many common DirectX issues.

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Ndisuio.sys, a very mysterious system file is present in Windows XP and Vista and is a driver for wireless things such as wi-fi and bluetooth. However, there have been many issues with this file downloading immense amounts of data and perhaps causing activity that is “big brother”ish.

The fact that hardly any information on this file downloading data is available by Microsoft makes things quite suspicious about it. It has even been noted that it looked as if it was transferring data to major companies like Comcast, Road Runner, Time Warner, BTC and Verizon.

The good news is, it turns out this file duplicates data that is sent/received, so wherever you go, it will also transfer the data to that file but it does not leave the computer/network so it’s not spyware. So it’s not as much of a big brother situation then it looks like. It simply performs internal communication tasks and stands for NDIS user I/O, hence, NDISUIO. NDISUIO is also used as a driver by many developers as it makes certain wireless network tasks easier such as implementing it for 802.11x connections. Some firewalls also use it as it can get the data in order to filter it.

But duplicating this data can hog resources for no reason, so disabling it is the best thing to do. The data rate of this file’s received data is huge, so that indicates that the data transfer is not over the Internet, but locally. So it’s just a duplicate of network activity but because it’s local everything transfers faster but uses more resources then casual internet usage as there’s more data involved at a given time span of 1 second, for example.

To disable this file, go to the control panel, administration tools, services, Wireless Zero Configuration, double click and disable it. This file is probably required to run if you use any linksys wireless devices.

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Using Wi-fi in public hotspots can be dangerous when packet sniffers are readily available. You’d want to encrypt and protect what you are sending and receiving over the network. Even at home if you don’t want people on the network logging your activity (for whatever reason) you would want to encrypt your traffic. An excellent way to do this is to set up a proxy over an SSH connection. You will need the following to do this (works for any platform):

• PuTTY for your platform (I use v0.59)
• A server that supports SSH (either set up at home or your web host)

That’s it! First set up PuTTY to connect to your SSH server but also set the following Tunnel settings:

• Source Port: 7070 (this number can be pretty much anything)
• Destination: localhost
• Select Dynamic and Auto

Then click Add and it should show up as D7070. Select Open and log-in. Your traffic can now be forwarded once you configure your applications to use the proxy.

In Firefox (2.x), go to Tools->Options->Advanced->Network->Settings and set the following proxy configuration:

• Manual proxy config
• SOCKS Host: localhost
• Port: 7070
• SOCKSv5 (or v4, doesn’t matter)

Then hit OK and you’re done. To make sure the proxy is working, you can go to a site that will display your IP address or location. You can also encrypt your BitTorrent traffic or your MSN connection by changing connection/proxy settings to point to localhost port 7070 using either SOCKS v4 or v5.

An easy way to switch proxy settings in Firefox is to install the Switchproxy add-on — change proxy settings with just a click. Enjoy your secure browser session!

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E-books are completely and utterly addicting. Whether free or paid for, these information products are rapidly becoming the most popular way to glean information online. With instant downloads and online payment processing, it is extremely easy to buy e-books on nearly any topic you can dream of, and have it within moments to read right there on your computer. While very handy technology, it does create a bit of a chaos on your computer!

The trick is to start off organized, creating e-books folders as you go. If you already have a big mess on your hands, hang on and we will deal with that in a moment!

First of all, create a folder on your main drive called “E-books”. This is your basic area to store all your e-book downloads. Think of it as a library . . . by clicking on this folder, you walk through the front doors of your e-book library. But in a real life library, you have categorized areas, everything is divided up by topic and that is what you need to do on your computer as well.

There is no need to create any folders inside your main E-books area just yet. Once you start downloading, you will want to begin adding categories that are relevant to your downloads. This differs for each person, so there is no way to tell you exactly what folders you will need to create. However, for example, if you download e-books on ecommerce, you would create a folder for this, perhaps titled “E-biz”. If you tend to download dozens of ecommerce e-books, you will need to create more specific folders such as “Traffic Building”, “Web Design”, “Payment Options”, and “SEO Techniques”, just to give a few examples.

Most e-books come with strange, rather indecipherable file names like “rneagle0248.doc”. This is of no help at all to you when you are looking through your virtual library, so the first thing you need to do when you save an e-book to its place on your hard drive, is to change the name. The actual title of the book is usually best.

Now, for those of you who already have hundreds of downloaded e-books scattered around your hard drive, there is a solution. You need to go ahead with setting up an E-books file as well, if you don’t already have one. Now, set up several folders for the most common categories that you are aware of, you can always add more if you come across another category.

Since most of your e-books will be saved under their original names, you will probably have to open most of them in order to figure out which category to put them under. This can take a while, so set aside a Saturday afternoon or a series of evenings to take on this task. Rename each book and file it correctly as you go. Your main pile of e-books should steadily diminish this way until you finally have everything neatly organized.

It is best if you can start off keeping your e-books organized, but even if you do it later on, the main thing is to always save your files with new names to the right file folder. This will keep your virtual library in order and you will be able to find your e-books in moments.

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Dropshipping has become the new way to sell on Ebay and it is growing in popularity with e-stores set up by individuals as well. There is a downside, though. Some dropshippers are unscrupulous and you really need to be careful before you start randomly selling things from any old dropshipping company. There are a few ways to make sure that you are getting a good dropshipping company and those are outlined below.

The first thing you need to do is find a wholesale company that specializes in dropshipping. Not all dropshippers are wholesalers, in fact, many sell their good for higher than normal prices! Even if they say wholesale on their webpage, you will need to check this out yourself.

It is pretty easy to check prices, just pop over to Google and do a search on a few of the items that you are interested in selling. For example, if you want to sell iPods, you can look up the regular price at Buy.com or any other regular vendor and compare it to your so-called “wholesale” price on the dropshipping company’s site. This will give you a good idea within a minute or two of how the prices rate.

Once you have a dropshipping lead that actually does have good prices (these can be very hard to come by!), you will need to test their shipping times and product quality. This might sound like a lot of work, but it is worth it in the long run. You will avoid having customers complaining to you and having to refund money by assuring yourself of the quality ahead of time.

To check the shipping and product quality, you will need to set up an account with the dropshipping company and order a sample of the product you intend to sell. Don’t worry about having to pay for it, since you will be selling it on Ebay anyway and shipping the first one from your home! This way, you get your money back without any problems, and you get to see if the whole system works.

It is often a good idea to test two or three dropshipping companies at a time so you can choose one faster. Check their websites for backordering details as well, since this could affect you in the case of selling on Ebay. You will want to know basically how long items will be backordered and what their refund policy is in these cases. This is another good reason to have two or more dropshipping companies on the line, you can always go with one when the other is out of stock.

The only thing left to do now is to choose your dropshipping company and start selling! Take digital photos of the sample items that you received and use those instead of stock photos on Ebay and your website, since this tends to portray more confidence. Start with one or two auctions at first and see how things go. If there are no hitches and your clients receive the product they ordered through the dropshipping company, you can go ahead and blitz the place!

It is important to take the time to test and review the dropshipping companies that you intend to use, since you will be on the hook if they fail. Checking out your suppliers before you sell is a generally good business policy anyway, so get in the habit of it.

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Compiling the kernel

Wanted to try out the 2.6 edition kernel? Never knew how to do it? Well heres how! Includes everything from compiling the kernel to configuring your bootloader.

Lets Begin!

cd /usr/src
wget -c http://kernel.org/pub/linux/kernel/v2.6/linux-2.6.7.tar.bz2
tar xvfj linux-2.6.7.tar.bz2
cd linux-2.6.7
make clean && make mrproper
make oldconfig ( or make menuconfig )
make bzImage
make modules
make modules_install

( i prefer this method rather then just “make” )

If you get alot of errors about .ko modules when you run make modules_install you need to update your modutils package with module-init-tools, see below.

Now to copy the files over for the kernel itself.

cp .config /boot/config-2.6.7
cp arch/i386/boot/bzImage /boot/vmlinuz-2.6.7
cp System.map /boot/System.map-2.6.7
mkinitrd /boot/initrd-2.6.7.img 2.6.7

You may experience an error such as this:

/dev/mapper/control: open failed: No such file or directory

if you receive that error run the following commands:

rm -rf /boot/initrd-2.6.7.img
mkinitrd –omit-lvm-modules /boot/initrd-2.6.7.img 2.6.7

Now to add it to the grub / lilo configuration.

[Grub]

Your config will look something like this. Please note you need to follow the format for your current config.

title Red Hat Linux (2.6.7)
root (hd0,0)
kernel /vmlinuz-2.6.7 ro root=LABEL=/
initrd /initrd-2.6.7.img

Add your new entry to the top of the kernel list. Set the default to your working kernel. NOTE: the first kernel in the list is “0″. (ex. default=1)

Now exit. Type “grub” at the bash prompt.

savedefault –default=0 –once

issue that at the grub prompt then use quit to exit. Once your reboot you need to go back in and set the default to the 2.6 kernel by setting default=0

[lilo]

Your config will look something like this. Please note you need to follow the format for your current config.

image=/boot/vmlinuz-2.6.7
label=2.6.7
append=”root=LABEL=/”
read-only
initrd=/boot/initrd-2.6.7.img

Leave the default as is.

/sbin/lilo -v -v
/sbin/lilo -R 2.6.7

Once it reboots and comes back online you can change the default to be 2.6.7 and /sbin/lilo -v -v

The above tells you how to enable failsafe in your kernels. SO that if the box panics the dc tech does not have to console in he just has to reboot the box.

How to install module-init-tools:

cd /usr/src
wget -c http://www.kernel.org/pub/linux/kernel/people/rusty/modules/module-init-tools-3.0.tar.gz
tar -zxvf module-init-tools-3.0.tar.gz
cd module-init-tools-3.0
./configure –prefix=”"
make moveold
make install
./generate-modprobe.conf /etc/modprobe.conf

How to determine what boot loader you are using?

dd if=/dev/hda bs=512 count=1 2>&1 | grep GRUB
dd if=/dev/hda bs=512 count=1 2>&1 | grep LILO

one of them will kick back something like:

root@w00t [~]# dd if=/dev/hda bs=512 count=1 2>&1 | grep GRUB
Binary file (standard input) matches
root@w00t [~]#

which means its using grub.

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I will be speaking about ModSecurity at ApacheCon Europe in Amsterdam later this year. I hear ApacheCon Europe 2007 (also in Amsterdam) was great so I am looking forward to participating this year. Interestingly, for some reason or another, this will be the first time ModSecurity will be “officially” presented to the Apache crowd, in spite of the fact we’ve been going at it for years. As always, the best part is meeting the people you’ve been communicating with for years.

“Intrusion detection is a well-known network security technique — it introduces monitoring and correlation devices to networks, enabling administrators to monitor events and detect attacks and anomalies in real-time. Web intrusion detection does the same but it works on the HTTP level, making it suitable to deal with security issues in web applications. This session will start with an overview of web intrusion detection and web application firewalls, discussing where they belong in the overall protection strategy. The second part of the talk will discuss ModSecurity and its capabilities. ModSecurity is an open source web application firewall that can be deployed either embedded (in the Apache HTTP server) or as a network gateway (as part of a reverse proxy deployment). Now in its fifth year of development, ModSecurity is mature, robust and flexible. Due to its popularity and wide usage it is now positioned as a de-facto standard in the web intrusion detection space.”

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